Posts Tagged ‘UGC’

2008 Bordeaux: Told you so……

This past UGC tasting was very quiet in Bordeaux compared to years past ….. there were very few American’s present. But, we went as we did last year and the year before because it’s our job… bad economy or not. When we tasted the wines, we were surprised by the quality and came back and told you so. Now, you have proof with Parker’s reviews. What we will promise is that we will do our best to get you the top wines at the lowest price possible. What the Bordelaise do from here is a mystery….. Stay tuned.

Back To The Right Bank…

Today we’re setting out for a very busy day on the “Right Bank”. We’ll start in Pomerol for the UGC tasting at Chateau La Conseillante where there are usually about twenty producers in attendance. It’s a good opportunity to find some standout wines in the appellation among some of the estates we don’t see too often. As we arrived, we check in and started going through the room tasting wines that were all quite different in style. You see, even though Pomerol is small, there are many different types of soil. The blends can be 50/50 Merlot/Cabernet Franc to 100% Merlot or somewhere in between. The wines we liked at the tasting were no surprise. Clinet, Gazin and La Conseillante were the hits with La Croix de Gay being the surprise. In this vintage, Merlot was tough for some although most say it did well. But of all the wines we tasted, the ones with the higher percent of Merlot were our least favorite… and we like Merlot (Petrus). After we finished this tasting, it was on the UGC in St. Emilion which is just across the road..

The St. Emilion tasting was held at Chateau Figeac. This is a beautiful estate located next to Cheval Blanc. At the tasting, there were many of the heavyweight estates of the appellation present. The hits were Angelus, Beau-Sejour Becot, Cannon La Gaffeliere, Clos Fourtet, Grand Mayne, Pavie Macquin, Larcis Ducasse, La Dominique and Troplong Mondot (more on this wine later in the blog) among the forty or so estates present. One of the issues in this tasting was over-extraction. It seems those who didn’t have the patients to wait and picked early had to over extract to get volume in the fruit. Doing this causes the wines to be overly tannic and out of balance. As one producer told me, you can’t do the same thing every year. You have to change with the weather… It’s a gamble, but the results can be rewarding. For 2008, it was a year to gamble, but that gamble paid off and it shows in the wines.

As we left, it was time for lunch… but not just any lunch. This was lunch at Troplong Mondot with the lovely Christine Valette. Every year, Christine hosts a lunch that she and her staff prepare. She is a great cook and her husband Xavier Pariente is a lucky man and he knows it. It‘s a great meal hosted at the estate in a cozy room with the fireplace crackling in the background. They also pour some older vintages of Troplong and the experience is a nice, relaxing atmosphere where you can chill and enjoy. After the lunch as all the guests left, it was time for us to taste the 2008. Upon tasting, we were introduced to the new label. Nice…. Xavier is an art broker/dealer and has a great eye and it shows with the new label. Tasting the 2008 revealed what the best wines of the vintage have. Fresh, ripe fruits, wonderful acidity, and silky tannins that are sweet and lifted. No it’s not the 05… or the 2000, but pretty darn close! After the tasting we went to the house and sat on the terrace that overlooks the city of St. Emilion. It’s a beautiful setting and there, we filmed some winery minutes for the Winery Channel.Tv as well as a segment with Chistine on the St. Emilion classification. It’s an interesting topic and one you should check out when we’ve edited the tape.

As we looked at the time, we decided to forgo out next tasting and go to Chateau Angelus where we were meeting with Hubert de Bouard and tasting not only the estates he owns but all he consults for. Since he is one of the hottest consultants in Bordeaux , going through the twenty-four wines in his lineup will be fun. The wines are priced in all ranges from about $10 to over $100 dollars. Of the lower priced wines, we liked La Fleur de Bouard (of course) Clos Chaumont, Lamothe Bergeron, Clos La Madeleine (next to Ausone), Lyonat, Vieux Chateau Palon and Chateau de Franc with the big surprise being a St. Estephe named Chateau Serilhan. Moving up the price range, the hits were his new acquisition, Chateau Bellevue (this wine rocked!), Fieuzal, his Rioja project Bodega Ostatu, Chateau Adaugusta (really small estate where the wine is killer), Le Plus from La Fleur de Bouard and of course Angelus (stunning). It was a great tasting and the Bouard’s were fantastic hosts as always.

Leaving the chateau, it was back to the Left Bank to attend a dinner at Gruaud Larose. Manager David Launay told us there will be a surprise wine tasted so we were excited. As we arrived at the beautiful estate, we were escorted into the barrel room for a tasting of recent vintages of both Sarget de Gruaud as well as the Grand Vin. After the tasting, we went back to the chateau were the food and wine were served in a casual stand up atmosphere. The food was catered by one of the top restaurants in the area, Le Saint Julien where chef Claud Broussard was in attendance preparing exquisite dishes. The wines… some of the best of the trip with the 2000, 1995, 1989 and 1975 out double magnums being served. But wait… what about the surprise wine? Well, about half way through the event, out come magnums of 1919! Yes that’s no typo… It was surprisingly fresh and was a real treat to sample. To think all that wine has been through and still tastes the way it does is simply amazing. I mentioned to David that when he comes to Southern California, we need to do a dinner with older vintages of GL. They have one of the largest cellars of past vintages in Bordeaux and I don’t know about you, but a dinner with these wines that have been perfectly stored would be a hoot!

What a day our last day in Bordeaux was. Tomorrow, we will spend the morning with none other than the man himself, Bernard Magrez and taste through his portfolio before boarding a plane to Italy via London to attend Vinitaly. Stay tuned!

More From The Left Bank….

Since we’re staying at Pape Clement and our first appointment is at Haut Brion (just down the street…literally), I let Kyle and Steve Jarvis (WineryChannel.tv) sleep in. While breakfast at 8AM instead of 7AM is hardly sleeping in, being that we didn’t get to bed till 12:30AM, it is the most sleep we’ve so far had on the trip.

So we arrive at Haut Brion at 9AM sharp only to find our tasting is at La Mission Haut Brion. In the past, the estate was packed with tasters, but this time, it was a little quiet. As we sat down at this formal tasting and began to taste wines from both estates, I was wondering if the toothpaste was having an effect on my palate. The wines had little fruit and felt a touch under ripe. Of course the first wines were the ‘second wines’ but hmm.. So I turned to Kyle to get his
opinion… he felt the same way I did. When we got to the grand vin, the wines got much better but, out of the five First Growths, HB was our least favorite. In fact, tasting wine from Pessac Leognan, we felt it was the most inconsistent region (in our opinion). But judgment reserved seen as tasting young Pessacs is notoriously difficult. We will say
that the whites from the portfolio were the bomb! During our tasting, we met with Prince Robert of Luxembourg and General Manager Jean-Philippe Delmas and talked about the vintage. Like many other estates, harvest was one of the latest on record, and only about 40% of the crop made it into the grand vin. Question again…what will be the price? It’s got to be under $200…or more!
See what we have available from Haut Brion.

Next, it was back to the Medoc. St. Julien to be exact and a tasting at Leoville Las Cases sampling the portfolio of Jean Hubert Delon  (Nenin, Potensac, Clos du Marquis and Las Cases) Along the way, we were running a tad late. The estate is militant on punctuality so we were flying through the Medoc until we were held up by a Range Rover. Looking for a clearing to pass, we realized it was Jean-Hubert himself… Oops! Arriving at the estate spot on time, we make our
way into the tasting room. The winemaker is there but he speaks no English. As we taste, we’re impressed with the whole lineup, including a wicked Las Cases that certainly bumps heads with the firsts! They’re working at this estate and it shows in the wines…
See what we have from Leoville Las Cases.

As we said our goodbyes, it was on to the first UGC tasting at Branaire to sample wine from St. Estephe, Pauillac and St. Julien. We see lots of folks we know and are engaged in many conversations making it difficult to taste all the wines. Without a lot of Americans present, it seems like everyone wants to engage in conversation re: state of our economy, and we’re only to happy to oblige. Perhaps this will keep prices at bay…. We’ll see… Of the wines tasted (we did get to them all), Branaire, Lagrange, Leoville Barton and Poyferre (really good), Beychevelle (surprised how yummy this was), Pontet Canet (of course), Pichon Baron, Clerc Milon, d’Armailhac and Pichon Lalande (which tasted better here than at the chateau) were the hits. Lafon Rochet, Lynch Bages and Haut Bages Liberal were also delicious. As we noticed the time, we had to bolt (without lunch) as we were running behind on time.

Our next appointment was with Ducru Beaucaillou’s Bruno Borie. He’s always in great form and today was no exception. We talked about a myriad of topics including the fact that he just became a new father. Bruno’s tasting room is really cool. It has some serious state of the art spittoons. The only problem is they are white and we’re drinking red wine here and if you have the bulls-eye mentality like we have, it can create quite a mess. So you have to compensate. It’s like Shaq shooting free throws. Bruno has three estates in his portfolio. The first is his Medoc property, Ducluzeau. This was a real surprise as it was a tasty wine for the money (under $20). Another great wine is his Lalande Borie from St. Julien’s west side… really good stuff. Over the past few years, not only has Ducru exploded in quality but so has La Croix de Beaucaillou. Made from its own parcel, this wine is like drinking the big-dog for a
fraction of the price. And Ducru was…Ducru. There is a reason why I love this wine. It just is my personal style and has everything I look for in Bordeaux. Fantastic again and maybe now, I can afford it…we’ll see.

After Ducru it was on to a big negociant tasting where we could taste the Margaux and Pessac wines as well as a number of other potential buys from many different vintages. One wine we really liked was the 1998 Montrose… really good stuff! Going back to Margaux… Brane Cantenac, Rauzan Segla, Malescot St. Exupery, Lascombes, Kirwan,
Giscours were all solid. One estate that has been on fire is d’Issan and the 08 continues the string…. really good stuff. For Pessac-Leognon, we aren’t as positive. The usual suspects were the hits; Smith-Haut Lafitte, Haut Bailly, Malartic La-Graviere, Domaine de Chevalier, Carbonnieux and Fieuzal, now that Hubert de Bouard is making the wine. The whites are in the same vein as the reds. While they are good to very good, they don’t have the polish of the 06 or
07’s. Still, Fieuzal, Domaine de Chevalier and Carbonnieux were the hits. One wine we liked that should
be inexpensive was Chantegrive which is yet another Hubert wine. Look for it late this year or early next.

After tasting over one hundred wines at this tasting, it was time to call it a day. Tonight was the Academy dinner featuring the year ending in a ‘9’ as the theme. We were excited as we’re talking about 59, 89, 99 and 09, that’s 1909 and 29 as an added bonus. There were many fun wines to try and the big surprise was 79 Haut Brion. Killer bottle that is in prime form at this time. With lots of the who’s who in Bordeaux attending, it was a great evening. Tomorrow…. back to the “Right Bank”.

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