Posts Tagged ‘Spain’

Part II: The ‘Wine Tour’ Begins

There are all kinds of ways to approach to these group trips and a lot depends on the importer and what they are trying to accomplish. .  Typically the ‘tours’ cover a bit of distance because importers tend to have a few producers in a variety of locations.  Depending on the importer, the pace can be anywhere from casual to brutal, though it most often leans to the latter.  Meaning no disrespect, these types of trips with certain importers have been colloquially labeled ‘death marches’ by many in the trade.  What do we mean?  Well, we have been on ones where the group hits the road  at 8 A.M. and visits 3-5 wineries per day, often ending at 9-10 o’clock at night, sometimes later if dinners are involved, then off to bed, and up the next day to do it again. The information comes fast and furiously and one’s absorption rate is severely tested.  In the end, should  one survive, a lifetime experience or two is likely. 

If it sounds fun however, like going to a few wineries on Hwy 29 in Napa on a Sunday afternoon, you really haven’t grasped the full meaning.   These sojourns are no picnic. It’s wine from morning ‘til night, traipsing in and out of cellars, barrel rooms, vineyards, etc. for several days on end.  On the bus, off the bus.  Interesting?  Absolutely.  Enlightening?  To be sure.  Fun?  Maybe in a hardcore way to wine fanatics, but far too grueling for those only casually committed to wine as a rule.  It is work.  Looking back, the planned pace of this particular trip was relatively easy by comparison to others we have been on.

The wine portion of the trip started with everyone meeting at the Madrid Airport to hook up with the bus.  The logistics of coordinating international flights from several parts of the U.S. to all arrive in Madrid within a 90 minute window is a daunting task in itself, but it went off with only minor casualties (3 of the 30+ people did not connect somewhere in the air travel process and missed the ‘kickoff’ of the trip). 

Day one was spent in the Vinos de Madrid region, south of the city, relatively obscure even to Spaniards,     it has a long grape growing history.   The first stop was a Vinos Jeromin, the family vineyard of Manuel Martinez who is probably better known in this country for the Vinos Sin-Ley label that he co-founded, and specifically a G5 Grenache bottlings from 120 year old vines..  This was the first stop directly after leaving the airport and set the tone for the theme of the whole trip.  The bus stopped and we all walked up a small hill to the vineyard where there was a table set up with glasses and wines out in the vine rows.  The main program with the Olé tour is, for better or worse, to taste the wine in the vineyard.  The Jeromin Zestos bottlings, modestly priced wines, were from the 2008 vintage were our first reds from ’08, a vintage that had wildly mixed reviews that seemed to depend on what part of Spain you were from.  They were solid offerings that will be worth looking into when they arrive in country later this year.  Bearing in mind that a number of folks had just gotten off of a plane, some jamon (ham), chorizo, and cheese were dispensed after the presentation of the wines and back to the bus to head to our next destination, Licinia, also in the Madrid appellation. We’ll cover that next time.

Easing Into the Spanish Mindset

Kathy in the Courtyard

Kathy in the Courtyard

The trip began with 2 days in Granada at the Parador San Francisco within the walls of the Alhambra. But first a word about the Paradors, since that will be something of a subtheme to the entire trip. Paradors are hotels run by the Spanish government in refitted national monuments.

They are hotels with luxury accommodations incorporated into castles, palaces, fortresses, convents, monasteries and other historic buildings throughout the country. According to the official Parador web site, the chain has also apparently built a number of traditionally styled modern hotels in other areas of interest but our journey did not include any of those, thus we have no comments.

This Parador in Granada , considered one of the most sought after accommodations in all of Spain in more than one travel source we consulted, is built into a 15th Century monastery. The monastery was established next to the Alhambra after the Moorish exodus and was where Isabel and Ferdinand, Spain’s greatest king and queen, were originally buried until 1521 when they were moved to the Royal Chapel in downtown Granada. While Kathy (aka Mrs. Answerman) is a huge fan of the travel books of Rick Steves, Steves was not on the support list for this place because he is basically one to always be on the cheap.

Mirador dt Morayama patio

Mirador dt Morayama patio

Our first evening evening, after walking the Albaicin to the San Nicholas viewpoint, we had dinner at Mirador de Morayama where legend says that Boabdil’s (the last Moorish ruler to sit in the Alhambra…a.k.a. ‘guy who lost the Alhambra to the Christians’) beloved wife, Moraima lived while he was confined at the Alhambra across the ravine that separated the Sacramonte part of the city from the hill upon which the Alhambra sat. Fabulous setting, good food, solid and well priced wine list (for people pretty comfortable with Spanish wines), it was called by Rick Steves, “the place to eat if you were only going to have one meal in Granada.”

The Alhambra was the last Moorish stronghold in Spain before the Christians conquered them in 1492. It is one Spain’s most visited tourist sites. It is one of the most beautiful buildings in the world with exquisite gardens and fountains, remarkable tile work in the ornately decorated walls, carved ceilings, and architecturally clever designs to take advantage of the water aspects to facilitate cooling.

The drive from Granada and Madrid was reputed to be five hours long, though we did it in four without any serious speeding, and isn’t necessarily chock full of excitement. There were Consuergo, in La Mancha, about 5 miles off the road, is an isolated hill upon which sits a pretty well preserved castle (reputedly built by the Templars) and several “Man of La Mancha” windmills. It is a modest diversion unless your traveling companion wants some unique photo shots. The other is that, as you drive through Andalucia, you will see miles and miles of olive trees. How many? As far as the eye can see in both directions, up and down the hillsides, all of the olive trees you have seen throughout your preceding life times ten…at minimum.

Steve con windmill

Steve con windmill

We drove back to Madrid the day after our Alhambra visit to hook up with the sales manager of Olé, Michael Hutchinson, also a bicycling racer of national repute, to join the group-at-large the next day. We met at the Gran Melina Fenix, a hotel in downtown Madrid around the corner from the Hard Rock Café and apparently a favorite of wine types (I had stayed at this same hotel with a different group nine years ago). That evening we went with Michael for tapas within quick walking distance from the hotel. Two bars sat side by side, the first one the target but not yet open. The one next door was standing room only, quite busy possibly owing to the fact that it was next door to the more popular bar that wasn’t quite open yet. It was notable as these were the first real tapas we had tasted on this trip and the fact that the Albarino they served one of the group was probably one of the more corked examples we had ever tasted. After explaining to the bartender that the wine was seriously flawed, he reluctantly opened another bottle, putting the first one on the back bar with a mass of other bottles. Wonder if that one got served to someone else later on?

We went next door at 8, when the place opened. At this second venue, called Pimiento Verde (green pepper), we sat down. We proceeded to pick from a small but serviceable list at fair prices (things like Arzuaga Ribera del Duero, Lopez de Heredia Rioja Tondonia, Pesquera Ribera del Duero) along with some very tasty plates including octopus (pulpo), roasted small green peppers, and cured meats (of course). The most memorable were baby artichokes done in a simple butter preparation that were entirely edible (as in all of the leaves). There were unlike any this California boy had ever had. Great vibe here, too, low keyed and comfortable. Highly recommended. After that it was early to bed, by Spanish standards anyway…around midnight.

Steve and Kathy’s Excellent Adventure in España…

From May 18 to June 1, Steve (buyer, newsletter co-author/editor) and Kathy (wife, CFO), two of the principals at Winex, were on a wine related trip to Spain.  The basic program was a trip with a specific importer (Olé) visiting various wine regions and estates in their portfolio sandwiched between two brief recreational soirees.  The journey towards the journey started two years earlier.  Kathy, who became something of a history junkie after seeing the historic Chinon Castle (famous for being a Templar prison, and for where Joan of Arc identified the dauphin and Richard the Lion Hearted died), decided she wanted to go to Spain.  She had added seeing the famous Moorish palace, the Alhambra, to her ‘bucket list.’  When the opportunity arose to fold that into an exploratory trip of a new group of up and coming Spanish producers (Kathy had never been to Spain, Steve only once in 2000), ‘it was on.’  Over the following blogs we will chronicle our trip and share some general impressions about the wines, food, hotels, and who knows what else?

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