Kathy in the Courtyard
The trip began with 2 days in Granada at the Parador San Francisco within the walls of the Alhambra. But first a word about the Paradors, since that will be something of a subtheme to the entire trip. Paradors are hotels run by the Spanish government in refitted national monuments.
They are hotels with luxury accommodations incorporated into castles, palaces, fortresses, convents, monasteries and other historic buildings throughout the country. According to the official Parador web site, the chain has also apparently built a number of traditionally styled modern hotels in other areas of interest but our journey did not include any of those, thus we have no comments.
This Parador in Granada , considered one of the most sought after accommodations in all of Spain in more than one travel source we consulted, is built into a 15th Century monastery. The monastery was established next to the Alhambra after the Moorish exodus and was where Isabel and Ferdinand, Spain’s greatest king and queen, were originally buried until 1521 when they were moved to the Royal Chapel in downtown Granada. While Kathy (aka Mrs. Answerman) is a huge fan of the travel books of Rick Steves, Steves was not on the support list for this place because he is basically one to always be on the cheap.
Mirador dt Morayama patio
Our first evening evening, after walking the Albaicin to the San Nicholas viewpoint, we had dinner at Mirador de Morayama where legend says that Boabdil’s (the last Moorish ruler to sit in the Alhambra…a.k.a. ‘guy who lost the Alhambra to the Christians’) beloved wife, Moraima lived while he was confined at the Alhambra across the ravine that separated the Sacramonte part of the city from the hill upon which the Alhambra sat. Fabulous setting, good food, solid and well priced wine list (for people pretty comfortable with Spanish wines), it was called by Rick Steves, “the place to eat if you were only going to have one meal in Granada.”
The Alhambra was the last Moorish stronghold in Spain before the Christians conquered them in 1492. It is one Spain’s most visited tourist sites. It is one of the most beautiful buildings in the world with exquisite gardens and fountains, remarkable tile work in the ornately decorated walls, carved ceilings, and architecturally clever designs to take advantage of the water aspects to facilitate cooling.
The drive from Granada and Madrid was reputed to be five hours long, though we did it in four without any serious speeding, and isn’t necessarily chock full of excitement. There were Consuergo, in La Mancha, about 5 miles off the road, is an isolated hill upon which sits a pretty well preserved castle (reputedly built by the Templars) and several “Man of La Mancha” windmills. It is a modest diversion unless your traveling companion wants some unique photo shots. The other is that, as you drive through Andalucia, you will see miles and miles of olive trees. How many? As far as the eye can see in both directions, up and down the hillsides, all of the olive trees you have seen throughout your preceding life times ten…at minimum.
Steve con windmill
We drove back to Madrid the day after our Alhambra visit to hook up with the sales manager of Olé, Michael Hutchinson, also a bicycling racer of national repute, to join the group-at-large the next day. We met at the Gran Melina Fenix, a hotel in downtown Madrid around the corner from the Hard Rock Café and apparently a favorite of wine types (I had stayed at this same hotel with a different group nine years ago). That evening we went with Michael for tapas within quick walking distance from the hotel. Two bars sat side by side, the first one the target but not yet open. The one next door was standing room only, quite busy possibly owing to the fact that it was next door to the more popular bar that wasn’t quite open yet. It was notable as these were the first real tapas we had tasted on this trip and the fact that the Albarino they served one of the group was probably one of the more corked examples we had ever tasted. After explaining to the bartender that the wine was seriously flawed, he reluctantly opened another bottle, putting the first one on the back bar with a mass of other bottles. Wonder if that one got served to someone else later on?
We went next door at 8, when the place opened. At this second venue, called Pimiento Verde (green pepper), we sat down. We proceeded to pick from a small but serviceable list at fair prices (things like Arzuaga Ribera del Duero, Lopez de Heredia Rioja Tondonia, Pesquera Ribera del Duero) along with some very tasty plates including octopus (pulpo), roasted small green peppers, and cured meats (of course). The most memorable were baby artichokes done in a simple butter preparation that were entirely edible (as in all of the leaves). There were unlike any this California boy had ever had. Great vibe here, too, low keyed and comfortable. Highly recommended. After that it was early to bed, by Spanish standards anyway…around midnight.
